How to tow a P38 Range Rover Automatic behind your Recreational Vehicle (RV) or Horse Box etc in the UK

This article sponsored by Touchwood RV Electrical www.touchwood-rvelectrical.co.uk


I have had people come up to me and tell me I can’t do it when it is there on the back of the RV!!!

Okay where to start, just stick the transfer case in neutral and away you go. Well it is actually slightly more than that, there are no tricks or modifications to the car except the A Frame:

First you must have an A Frame that is capable of the required towing capacity, I use a Blue Ox unit from the states, and the A Frame is un-braked.
http://www.blueox.us/Towbars/towbars.htm There are many other frames available just make sure they are capable of towing the weight of the Range Rover

Braking, no a strong right leg is not mandatory, but maybe a damn good idea!

On the Rangie I use a Brake Buddy unit, this is powered by 12Volt, runs an air pump into a reservoir and when the RV brakes, the de-acceleration activates the brake buddy and pushes the break pedal, you can adjust the sensitivity etc on the unit, no dragging of the Rangie’s brakes going down hill etc, and you can feel it is working when it does come one. http://www.brakebuddy.co.uk/

Electrics, DO make sure you know what you are doing, as the wiring for all the lights go through the Body electrical Control Module (BeCM), do not just wire straight to the cars wiring harness at the most suitable point, if the BeCM burns out you are looking at in excess of £2K to replace.
Remember that you can't use a lighting board on the rear of the car as the law states that lights fitted to a trailer must all be in working order and work.

Transfer Case to Natural; This is what works for me and is for the P38 Rangie, put the auto box in neutral, remove the ignition key (stops the auto sensor noting the key is there) then follow the hand book specified for emergency recovery (adding a fuse etc), now put the key in the ignition, turn to ignition setting, don’t start the engine.

The transfer case will now self select neutral and the on dash display will state “Transfer Neutral” now put the key in auxiliary position. Put the automatic box into Park – yes Park and now the car is ready to be hitched up and towed, using park prevents the gearbox oils turning and damaging the the internals of the transmission.

Clearly you need to do all the other standard things, clip on number plate of the RV, red triangles etc, etc.

At the far end, auto box natural, key out, fuse out, key in, key to ignition the transfer box re selects high range and you are back to normal. (Remember do check your hand book first; it is all there if you dig around emergency recovery sections)

Land Rover UK have stated you can’t do this, I contacted Land Rover US, (after all the tow them all over the states), who told me how to do it, they have also stated that there are no known distance or speed restrictions, I guess time will tell on this one, we have now towed a good few thousand miles, and cruse at 60 MPH on motorways, to date have not had any issues as a result.

One more bit, Land Rover US did recommend that you take the car for a short drive before towing to make sure the gear boxes oils are warmed up so that natural is easily selected, we did fail to do this on one outing during a serious cold spell and the transfer case would not select natural correctly, a short run down the road and back and all was good. Not a mandatory issue just a recommendation but proven good advice especially during winter weather.

I hope that helps?

Sponsored by Touchwood RV Electrical www.touchwood-rvelectrical.co.uk

the home of 12/120 & 240 volt Caravan and Motorhome electrical accessories

Contact form here