How to tow an L322 (MY 2003 to MY 2005 incl) Range Rover Automatic behind your Recreational Vehicle (RV) or Horse Box etc in the UK
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I have had people come up to me and tell me I can’t do it
when it is there on the back of the RV!!!
Okay where to start, just like the P38A Range Rover write
up on this web site, just stick the transfer case in
neutral and away you go. Well it is actually slightly more than that, there are
no tricks or modifications to the car except the A Frame:
First; please note that this is only possible on L322 models years up to and
including 2005, it is not possible to tow all wheels down the L322 from model
year 2006 onwards - so please don't try it you will damage the transmission.
You must have an A Frame that is capable of the required towing capacity,
in excess of 5500 lbs (2750 KG) I use a Blue Ox base plate and A frame purchased
direct from the states, and the A Frame is un-braked version.
http://www.blueox.us/Towbars/towbars.htm There are
many other frames available just make sure they are capable of towing the weight
of the Range Rover.
Braking: On either Rangie I use a Brake Buddy unit, this is powered by
12Volt, runs an air pump into a reservoir and when the RV brakes, the
de-acceleration activates the brake buddy and pushes the break pedal, you can
adjust the sensitivity etc on the unit, no dragging of the Rangie’s brakes going
down hill etc, and you can feel it is working when it does come one.
http://www.brakebuddy.co.uk/
Electrics, DO make sure you know what you are doing, as
the wiring for all the lights go through electrical control modules
do not just wire straight to the cars wiring harness at the most suitable point,
if the electrical control modules burn out you are looking at in excess of £7K to replace.
Remember
that you can't use a lighting board on the rear of the car as the law states
that lights fitted to a trailer must all be in working order and operational.
Transfer Case to Natural; This is what works for me and is for the L322 Rangie,
put the auto box in neutral, remove the ignition key (stops the auto sensor
noting the key is there) then follow the hand book specified for emergency
recovery (adding a fuse etc), now put the key in the ignition, turn to ignition
setting, don’t start the engine.
The transfer case will now self select neutral and the on dash display will state “Transfer Neutral” now put the key in auxiliary position. Put the automatic box into Park – yes Park and now the car is ready to be hitched up and towed, using park prevents the gearbox oils turning and damaging the the internals of the transmission.
NB I find the car's battery goes flat after about two
hours towing. This is not yet tried but is being experimented with, put the key
in, but don't turn to the auxiliary, the action of putting the key in releases
the steering lock but does not energise the dashboard.
Clearly you need to do all the other standard things, clip on number plate of
the RV, red triangles etc, etc.
At the far end, auto box natural, key out, fuse out, key
in, key to ignition the transfer box re selects high range and you are back to
normal. (Remember do check your hand book first; it is all there if you dig
around emergency recovery sections)
Land Rover UK have stated you can’t do this, I contacted Land Rover US, (after
all the tow them all over the states), who told me how to do it, there is a speed
and time limit of 50 MPH and 5 hours, have exceed the limit but not the time as
yet, no noticeable issues as a result.
One more bit, Land Rover US did recommend that you take the car for a short
drive before towing to make sure the gear boxes oils are warmed up so that
natural is easily selected - not a mandatory issue just a recommendation
especially during winter weather.
I hope that helps?
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